The End of A Legacy: Rolex Discontinues Carl F. Bucherer

ONLY 2 YEARS AFTER THE ACQUISITION OF THE 137 YEAR OLD FAMILY-OWNED SWISS WATCHMAKING BRAND

BREAKING NEWS | 500 WORDS | 3 MIN READ

7th February, 2025: In a move that signals a significant shift in the luxury watch landscape, Rolex has announced the discontinuation of the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand. This decision, reported by Bilanz and Handelszeitung and later confirmed by other sources, marks the end of an era for the brand with a 137 year old legacy of family ownership, which was a passion project of the late Bucherer patron, Jörg Bucherer.

Despite a rich history and a commitment to in-house movements, the brand acquired by Rolex in 2023 faced financial challenges. While the news came as a surprise, it appears that Carl F. Bucherer, despite significant investment, did not meet Rolex's profitability expectations. According to Bilanz and Handelszeitung, Rolex informed Carl F. Bucherer employees of the decision on Friday morning. The remaining Carl F. Bucherer boutiques will soon close, and their sales presence within Bucherer stores will be replaced by other brands. While neither Rolex nor Bucherer officially commented on the discontinuation, with Rolex deferring to Bucherer and Bucherer dismissing the information as "rumours," multiple sources have corroborated the news.

Despite some periods of strong sales, Carl F. Bucherer reportedly never achieved profitability. Bilanz and Handelszeitung estimates that Bucherer likely lost around 250 million francs on the brand. While Carl F. Bucherer reportedly generated between 80 and 100 million francs in sales during good years, even becoming the second-strongest brand within Bucherer behind Rolex at times, sources indicate the brand never operated in the black. This lack of profitability likely played a key role in Rolex's decision. While Rolex is owned by a charitable foundation, it operates as a highly successful business. Bilanz and Handelszeitung suggests that Rolex views Carl F. Bucherer as an unnecessary distraction, particularly since it was primarily a byproduct of the Bucherer acquisition. The world's leading watch brand, alongside its sister brand Tudor, reportedly saw no need for a struggling second brand.

Jörg Bucherer's Legacy

The question remains why Bucherer didn't make this decision earlier. The answer, according to Bilanz and Handelszeitung, lies with Jörg Bucherer. Carl F. Bucherer was his personal passion, and as long as he led the company, no one challenged the brand's viability. He was reportedly both the "life insurance" and "bank" for the brand. Only after his death, shortly after the sale of Bucherer to Rolex, was a realistic assessment of the brand's future possible. Rolex's financial analysts then reportedly sealed its fate.

Rolex reportedly intends to find positions within the group for some of the approximately 100 affected Carl F. Bucherer employees. Bilanz and Handelszeitung reports that around 70 employees working in the Carl F. Bucherer production facility in Lengnau near Biel will likely be offered jobs at the new Rolex factory in Bulle.

A Missed Opportunity?

The failure of Carl F. Bucherer is surprising given its access to Bucherer's extensive distribution network across Europe and the US, including online channels. An unnamed industry expert commented, "I would have expected more from the brand.” The brand also reportedly benefited from being bundled with highly sought-after Rolex models, essentially requiring customers to purchase a Carl F. Bucherer watch to acquire a coveted Rolex Daytona, for example. This tactic, however, seems to have backfired, as used Carl F. Bucherer models are now reportedly available on the secondary market with discounts of up to 90%. At its peak, Carl F. Bucherer had a presence in approximately 250 stores, including 50 operated by Bucherer and its US subsidiary, Tourneau.

Read the Original Report by Bilanz and Handelszeitung here.